Van's RV-8A - G-RVBA

Van's builder support

2007-10-17T16:45:22Z

Spoke with Ken at Van's this afternoon to clarify that my Aileron Gap Fairing installation is OK? It is.
No drawings are available for this part with the earlier kits supplied and it's a little bit of trial and error!
In fact, he said that I could "chop the end's off up to the doubler plates if you wanted to as it's not such an important part of the structure but I would'nt bother with that either". Great, I can move on.

The newer AGFs are pre punched and illustrated appropriately too!

W-824 Aileron Gap Seal (Left)

2007-09-30T14:15:28Z

The spacing, drilling, deburring and dimpling of the left Wing skin/Gap seal is completed.

This is the opposite side view.

W-824 Aileron Gap Seal (Left)

2007-09-30T14:05:54Z

Same prep and methods as for the Right wing, as usual it goes along so much faster. 2" spacing is required although the equal division results in a 1/4" discrepancy. So per Van's build manual, this is 'lost' within 4 holes being 1/16" smaller between each of the holes.

W-824 Aileron Gap Seal (Right)

2007-09-28T16:40:23Z

This is the top skin view. Finally finished this fairly tense stage. The image makes the skin look very scratched, it is not like that without the flash effect though. Who say's the camera does not lie?

W-824 Aileron Gap Seal (Right)

2007-09-28T16:36:33Z

Before the W-814 can be fitted the wing skin and the seal needs to be dimpled. The face is a very important part of the build.....no honest, honest!!!

W-824 Aileron Gap Seal (Right)

2007-09-28T16:12:52Z

Et Voila! Let's hope it's not a cock up!

W-824 Aileron Gap Seal (Right)

2007-09-28T16:04:55Z

The Gap Seal is now positioned just prior to back drilling through to the skin. The process to get this far has taken ages for what is about to be achieved, if only it had been pre punched!

W-824 Aileron Gap Seal (Right)

2007-09-28T15:30:47Z

The plans call for a 2" rivet spacing for the W-824 and the wing skin. Having measured up and pre drilled I will then use the W-824 as a 'jig' to back drill through to the skin. Can't afford a mistake here.

Wing Lower Outboard Skin (Right)

2007-09-24T15:22:27Z

Builders Tip! Always have the die pin pointing upwards, then manually place the female end of the die above and keep it held flat, then and only then wack it with a dead blow hammer.

This method ensures the skin doesnt buckle upwards and avoids a figure of eight shape whole if the skin moves very slightly.

Wing Lower Outboard Skin (Right)

2007-09-24T15:00:06Z

Having deburred all the holes on both sides, now using the Avery tool to dimple sking after removing the plastic film with a gas torch.

W-824 Aileron Gap Seal (Right)

2007-09-24T14:23:47Z

After removing the QB Rib rivets on the rear spar, the W-814 sits correctly and relaxed against the wing skin with the 6/32" edge. Now match drilled to the ribs only.

W-824 Aileron Gap Seal (Right)

2007-09-24T14:04:54Z

Aligning the W-824 prior to match drilling. It's very important to clamp this item properly as if not precisely positioned it will pull the trailing wing edge down and distort the final result.

W-413 Inboard Aileron Bracket (L)

2007-09-07T15:51:14Z

View from beneath the W-413 showing the set rivets.

W-413 Inboard Aileron Bracket (L)

2007-09-07T15:51:03Z

Note: the 'bottom' rivet is to be an AN426 countersunk rivet per the plans.

W-824 Aileron Gap Seal (Left) Outboard

2007-09-07T14:53:55Z

Although it looks as if I could have fitted this without trimming, in fact it is not possible as the various rivets fall precisely along or above the bend line of the W-824 flange. This is a real pain to keep trimming and will need to be finessed once the W-824 flange is flush with the rear spar after removing some rib rivets.

The revised system is much better with the most recent kits.